Today was 10 miles, bringing our total to 204 miles since we left Lucca.

Meals: You’d think this walk is all about the food with as much as we talk about it. Well, yes and no. As a former visitor of Italy once said (Bonaparte): an army marches on its stomach! We’re not quite an army, but we do march!

Last night we went to a well- rated “locals” pizza restaurant. The notes said get there early as they fill up fast! We got there early. We ordered 2 mixed salads (not in the menu, but they’re happy to make them), 2 pizzas,and a mineral water.

The salads were good but, when the pizzas came out, our jaws dropped!

As you may be able to see, each pizza requires 2 plates to support them!

We were only able to eat 1/2, saving the rest for today’s walk.

The total for the evening’s meal? 29€, or about $32.

Monuments: The proprietor of the B&B we stayed at was an architect. A few years ago, he submitted a proposal for the town’s float/ monument to the patron saint, Santa Rosa. They built it and, per tradition, carry it through the town streets on one evening per year. Next year, a new design will be chosen, built and carried.

Oh by the way, this monument is 100′ tall and weighs over 12,000 lbs.! 100 men are required to carry it. Here it is:

If you do a youtube search, you can see it in more detail. It’s worth the effort!

Today’s walk was interesting for a couple of features. The first were the carved-out roadways that we followed for about a mile and one half.

These were built by the Etruscans roughly 3,000 years ago (paving was more recent! ).

Ther second feature was the similarity between this section of Italy and Watsonville/ Salinas!

Only 4 more stages until we get to Rome. We’re getting close!

Ciao, for now.

Today was 15 miles, bringing us to 219 miles, overall.

Yesterday afternoon had the thunderstorm to beat the band! Lightning, thunder, tons of rain. You name it. It was amazing to watch from our hotel room window … and good to not be in it.

For dinner, we opted against going out. Instead, we went to the nearby grocery store and dinner shopped in their deli section. It fit the bill.

On the way out of Vetralla this morning we traveled on this town street. Honestly, if you put 1940’s cards on the street, you’d think it was 1940.

And then we hit the forests.

It wasn’t until they added the “over the river” part that it got interesting! A recent storm had taken down dozens of trees, including one that took out the bridge we were to cross:

Hard to see but, between the two red lines is a trunk. It is about 2 1/2′ above the make- shift new bridge, below. You can’t see the water flowing below the bridge, but it’s there, and it’s significant. Mud slopes at 45° on both sides complete the picture. And no alternative to avoid this mess. Using our hands and knees, we made it! Here’s another one that was a bit easier:

Another day’s walk completed. Just three more and we’re in Roma!

Another 15 mile day bringing us to 234 miles,  overall.

Tomorrow looks to be a longer one, with around 16 miles, and our last day, Thursday, should add another 12 miles.

The afternoon miles are starting to wear the troops down. As such, we’ll start tomorrow’s long day at 7 am, and hope to wrap up by 1:00 pm. We’ll see.

Sorry for the short post. Probably Rome before we add much more.

God bless and Ciao

17 miles today. A longer one. Our total to date is 251 miles since Lucca.

Yesterday was backwoods and waterfalls,

Today ended with busy streets and noisy traffic.

Yesterday we were traveling through towns right out of the 40’s and 50’s,

(Do you remember gas stations with the pumps right alongside the main road? I do … Centerville)

Today, everyone is driving with a cell phone in one hand and the wheel in the other … just like home!

Tomorrow, we will see the splendor of Rome. This is the first glimpse we had of the Roman metropolis, from 20 miles away!

Time to recover from today’s hike and prepare for the final walk, tomorrow.

Ciao

Today was 11 miles. Our final total for the Via Francigena is 261 miles. No more to add, this trip.

Today was certainly a mix of quiet trails

and very busy metropolitan streets. While a shot or two of these busy streets might help to give you a sense of what it’s like, I simply couldn’t do it.

In large cities, there are (at any given time) dozens of paths the Camino could take; alleys, side streets, shoulders, main streets, etc. Street names may or may not exist and trail signs may or may not exist. What does exist is a cacophony of signs, stickers, etc., overloading your senses.

Your job is to find the right path and/or markings while not being hit by other pedestrians, cars, buses, etc. Also, to not fall into potholes, trip on curbs, tree roots, and more.

Eventually, you are taken to a city park trail and see this.

And, with a bit more in-city walking, you see this:

The Piazza San Pietro! We’ve arrived!

More to come in the next few days as we explore this city and recover a bit.

While the were no official miles walked, we’ve recorded about 11 miles on foot between a morning run and miles of exploring!

Beauty, the Art: We had the chance to tour the Vatican Museums and the Sistene chapel today. We are officially out of superlatives to describe the beauty. Every artist of repute during the Italian Renaissance is represented there… and with their best works. We could not absorb what we saw.

As a feeble attempt, we offer one fresco by Rafael. It is in a former Pope’s library and shows the different intellectual studies required, philosophy, natural sciences, etc. … along with the famous thought- leaders of those studies. What is most interesting about this fresco was that Rafael had permission to include himself in the painting AND Michelangelo. Like “where’s Waldo”, the trick is to find them. Bonus points if you do find them and comment back to this blog!

Beauty, People: Later last night, we went for a walk to and through St. Peter’s plaza. Most of the tourists had gone. The only ones remaining were the homeless, who were laying down their bedding in the shadows and alcoves around the square for their night’s sleep. We recalled that the current Pope, Francis, has a reputation for sneaking out late at night and bringing food, water and conversation to these, the least of us. The thought was moving to us.

So, this morning, we were walking to the store and talking about what we might be able to do. Ahead of us were two nuns strolling along. Next thing you notice, they disappeared. On looking, we noticed that they stopped to care for a homeless man, with conversation, care and a bit of food. I took a photo and have debated whether to post or not. I don’t wish to intrude, but it speaks of a remarkable beauty. That man, and each of us, uniquely matter. We are all made in God’s image and that makes us special, indeed. Even the least of us.

Each of you matter, also. God bless you. Bill and Diane.

Second day in Rome as tourists. Lots of miles walked/ ran. They don’t count.

Today was a day for seeing the sights, including the Colosseum. What an extraordinary achievement for 2,000 years ago.

It seated 50,000 and they even had (sort of) a retracting ceiling. Not so keen about their shows, though …

One of the things you notice about European cities is the prevalence of small cars. Rome seems to be the epicenter of this phenomenon, with small Fiats and Smart cars everywhere. In fact, one of four cars around here is a Smart car.

But … what happens when a parking spot is too small, even for a Smart car?  Well, you just back in!

We saw this technique about every fifth or so parked car. Pretty efficient use of  space!

When in Rome: In France, and in Italy, we noted that it is rare for people to pick up their pizza by hand to eat. They usually cut it into bite- sized bits and eat it with a fork and knife.

Last night, as we were eating our pizzas ,

We noticed others around us, cutting slices, then folding them in half, and … eating them with their hands!

We had no choice but to eat with our hands, because … when in Rome, do as the Romans do!

Enjoy! Ciao!

Just a quick wrap up of things seen on our Sunday tour day around Rome. There’sTrevi fountain:

There’s the Pantheon;

And then there’s St. Peter’s Basilica. No words to describe it!

We’ve been in scores of cathedrals in Spain, France and Italy.  They are all beautiful. This one,  St. Peter’s, is on it’s own. Breathtaking!

Here’s a sculpture that Michelangelo did, in his 20’s, that is found in the basilica. Again, amazing!

We are approaching Milan on or train trip. That’s all for now.