11 miles walked, bringing the total to 141 miles. Once again, no wifi and a weak wireless signal  –> short post.

Today was a steady climb, with a few downhill sections to help ensure that we had enough climbing. Here’s the profile:

We had no rain during the walk. As we arrived, the thunder started rumbling and the rain is due in an hour or so. All good.

Tomorrow is an easier day; downhill and short. That’s okay.

Hopefully, the internet will allow me to post. Ciao.

Today was 6 miles,  mostly all downhill. Our total is now 147 miles walked.

Radicofani was really beautiful, with stunning 360 degree views. Even our flat had an amazing view:

And the fortress at the top was visible for a very long distance away:

So what made Radicofani special wasn’t just the view, it was the people! Everyone we met was very friendly. In the restaurant, everyone seemed to know everyone else, but still all took time to say “hi” to us (in Italian). The proprietress of the small store we visited this morning figured that we were purchasing lunch supplies, then offered to make our lunches AND seal them for our walk. Locals on the street all greeted us … just very enjoyable.

We had a very short day today, which is good.  Bill has been dealing with flu- like symptoms for the last few days, so a short segment is a good  thing for recovery.

Since we’ve been without internet for the last several days, we’ll post a few of the photos from along the way today, as we have a fair wifi signal:

(The “classic” Tuscany photo).

(We had some rain! )

(Our very quaint place in Gallina )

All for now. Ciao!

Today was 11 miles, bringing the total to 158 miles. For the most part, a very green and beautiful stage … if you don’t factor in the traffic.

No traffic in this shot, but more on that, later.

As we left the restaurant last night, we snapped a photo of Radicofani, roughly 7 miles away.

As a reminder of how far you could go on this walk, here are done choices:

Note that Santiago de Compostela is only about 1000 miles away … 4x the distance we will travel on this trip!

Italy is a cycle loving nation. Everywhere you see cyclists. And the little cafe’s offer incentives for cyclists to stop; like this bike repair station. Very complete!

And, if you’ve ever traveled through California’s foothills, you’ve seen many “Mark Twain slept here” signs. These are a way of self-promoting the town. Well, that works here too! This small town advertises the stay of Galileo, who came here to avoid the plague … for a few months.

OK, caution and council.  The guide book suggests that at  7 km remaining, take a bus. Don’t bother to walk because the road is narrow and there is no shoulder.  We have walked hundreds of kilometers on narrow country lanes over the course of the last decade, so we know how to take caution while walking these sections. We would certainly take caution on this stretch.

We were 3 km into our walk when a car stopped on the highway and asked ‘why are you walking this way’? That didn’t refer to an Aerosmith song (we’re now fully into the 70s/80s music scene). He was quite familiar with the via Francigena, and the alternative route. He stated that the alternative route is safer and would have been a better route if we read our guide book.  We did, but we were concerned about the added 8 km and 1600′ of climbing on that route.

Our approach was to walk on the furthest side of the pavement, facing traffic, and when cars approached we would step off into the weeds on the side.  As soon as the cars passed, we would get back on to the roadway.  Rinse and repeat.

That is,  until one  car from behind us decided it was time for him to pass another car in front of him.  With us walking facing traffic on the other side of the road, we did not expect to see, and feel,  a car going 50 miles an  hour pass from behind us about 1 to 2′ off our shoulder.  That was not a thrill we were looking for!

From that point forward we would step off into the weeds if we saw a car in front of us or heard a car behind us. We still enjoyed the hike, but we’re a bit more aware then ever before on a highway.

If we have a do over, we would take the alternative route even considering the added 5 miles and 1600′ of climbing.

Looking forward in the guide book, there are no more sections like this.  God is good.

Ciao

Today was 15 miles,  bringing the total to 173. We will walk 11 or 12 tomorrow, then take the next day off. We’re ready for that break!

After the break we only have 6 days of walking and we’re in Rome, the end of the hiking road for this trip. We’re not ready for that 😥!

The hike was long. The road signs in Acquapendente indicated 14 kilometers (about 8.5 miles), but that would be by SR 2 … the infamous route of yesterday. Apparently as a reaction to yesterday’s walk, the route designers worked hard to completely miss SR 2! The result? Our actual route was 25 kilometers (15 miles), or almost double the SR 2 route. It seemed we spent almost as much time walking away from our destination as towards it. You know, two steps forward, one step back? Here’s a map of our walk. The blue line is our actual walk, while the green line is the direct route.

Importantly, all roads lead to Rome!

Down to the water:  Nonetheless, when we finally caught a view of Lake Bolsena, it was worth the walk!

Even better was the arrival! In no time, both Bill and Diane were in the Lake enjoying a swim! Life is good!

Ciao!

Today was 13 miles and 2,000′ of climbing. That brings us to 183 miles, overall, and 18,000′ cumulative of climbing.  Six days of hiking remain, along with tomorrow’s rest day.

Lake Bolsena is the focal point of both yesterday and today’s journey. It is roughly 1/4th the size of Lake Tahoe and was formed atop of a dormant volcano. Oh, and it is beautiful!

The terrace dinner we had at Lake Bolsena showed off a phenomenal sunset:

As the hike today was dominated by Lake views:

But the”brass ring” view is from our balcony at our accomodations for the next two nights:

(The balcony view)

We are now spread out and enjoying the beginning of the rest. We hope each of you enjoy this day, also.

Ciao, Bill and Diane

No formal miles walked.

A very good thing. A chance to put bandages and braces on the parts that are complaining. A chance to get up when you want to versus waking very early to avoid the heat of the mid-day sun.

We have simply become tourists for the day in Italy. Speaking of tourists, we’ve encountered no Americans since starting the Francigena… until today. We met a pair of American pilgrims this morning as they were leaving town (not us, we’re on holiday! ). Today, our B&B will have 3 rooms dedicated to Yanks. That’s a whole lotta English being spoken!

We quickly encountered the Italian version of an iconic Spanish pilgrim monument:

We also stopped to visit the domed church in this village.

This is said to be the third tallest domed cathedral in the world, after Rome and Florence.

Why the big cathedral in this small town? Well, for 350 years,  from 1200 to the mid-1500’s, this town was the summer home for the Popes. (Gotta beat the heat in Rome during the summers, somewhere! ).

The home for the Popes was “Rocca di Papi”. Like a deserted cabin, the Rocca di Papi has fallen into a bit of disrepair;

I’m sure if our “Chamber of Commerce ” guidebook writers wrote about it, it might be offered as a B&B, as: “Charming and rustic, storied castle with excellent views of the stars (no roof).  Available for your stay, for that discerning guest”.

You already want to stay there, right?

God bless, Bill and Diane

First the details. 11 miles walked, bringing the total to 194 miles.

We enjoyed the last evening of our break at a local restaurant with a killer view!

And killer seafood risotto:

The view and dinner for two only set us back about 38€, or about $42. Not a bad deal!

This morning we were back on the road again. For those keeping score, that’s Willie Nelson, 1998, and proof that we are moving musically through the decades and only have two more before we are back to the future (oops, we slipped back to the 80’s!).

The Roman Road: About a mile of this day’s journey was on a Basoli paved road, a type of paving that the Romans used. In fact, this stretch of road dates back to before Christ. Several Roman emperors traveled on this road. Cool! (Of note: the telephone poles are a recent add and not present when the Ceasars were traveling through … in case you were wondering. )

The rest of the journey was less interesting, but mercifully less hilly.

And in short order, we were marching into Viterbo. Another day’s journey complete.

Enjoy your day’s journey. Ciao and God bless you.

Today was 10 miles, bringing our total to 204 miles since we left Lucca.

Meals: You’d think this walk is all about the food with as much as we talk about it. Well, yes and no. As a former visitor of Italy once said (Bonaparte): an army marches on its stomach! We’re not quite an army, but we do march!

Last night we went to a well- rated “locals” pizza restaurant. The notes said get there early as they fill up fast! We got there early. We ordered 2 mixed salads (not in the menu, but they’re happy to make them), 2 pizzas,and a mineral water.

The salads were good but, when the pizzas came out, our jaws dropped!

As you may be able to see, each pizza requires 2 plates to support them!

We were only able to eat 1/2, saving the rest for today’s walk.

The total for the evening’s meal? 29€, or about $32.

Monuments: The proprietor of the B&B we stayed at was an architect. A few years ago, he submitted a proposal for the town’s float/ monument to the patron saint, Santa Rosa. They built it and, per tradition, carry it through the town streets on one evening per year. Next year, a new design will be chosen, built and carried.

Oh by the way, this monument is 100′ tall and weighs over 12,000 lbs.! 100 men are required to carry it. Here it is:

If you do a youtube search, you can see it in more detail. It’s worth the effort!

Today’s walk was interesting for a couple of features. The first were the carved-out roadways that we followed for about a mile and one half.

These were built by the Etruscans roughly 3,000 years ago (paving was more recent! ).

Ther second feature was the similarity between this section of Italy and Watsonville/ Salinas!

Only 4 more stages until we get to Rome. We’re getting close!

Ciao, for now.

Today was 15 miles, bringing us to 219 miles, overall.

Yesterday afternoon had the thunderstorm to beat the band! Lightning, thunder, tons of rain. You name it. It was amazing to watch from our hotel room window … and good to not be in it.

For dinner, we opted against going out. Instead, we went to the nearby grocery store and dinner shopped in their deli section. It fit the bill.

On the way out of Vetralla this morning we traveled on this town street. Honestly, if you put 1940’s cards on the street, you’d think it was 1940.

And then we hit the forests.

It wasn’t until they added the “over the river” part that it got interesting! A recent storm had taken down dozens of trees, including one that took out the bridge we were to cross:

Hard to see but, between the two red lines is a trunk. It is about 2 1/2′ above the make- shift new bridge, below. You can’t see the water flowing below the bridge, but it’s there, and it’s significant. Mud slopes at 45° on both sides complete the picture. And no alternative to avoid this mess. Using our hands and knees, we made it! Here’s another one that was a bit easier:

Another day’s walk completed. Just three more and we’re in Roma!

Another 15 mile day bringing us to 234 miles,  overall.

Tomorrow looks to be a longer one, with around 16 miles, and our last day, Thursday, should add another 12 miles.

The afternoon miles are starting to wear the troops down. As such, we’ll start tomorrow’s long day at 7 am, and hope to wrap up by 1:00 pm. We’ll see.

Sorry for the short post. Probably Rome before we add much more.

God bless and Ciao