First, some numbers.  Today is day 17. We have walked approximately 240 miles.

When last we left our readers, we showed a picture of castle ruins above Castrojerez. Seems it was built in the 8th century and continued in use until sometime in the 16th century. Somehow, we got inspired and decided to climb up to it. The view was worth it! Here’s Castrojerez from above.

Today’s walk was a roughly 16 miler so we started early. We had to wait out this local traffic jam on leaving Castrojerez.

One thing we’ve seen for scores of miles is sunflowers. Fields and fields of sunflowers. The challenge of taking a picture of them is that they have always been pay their prime. Not today. We finally found a field worth photographing. (Keep in mind that the photographer is not necessarily worth taking photographs).

Now for the titled topic.  On checking the weather reports, today looked to be the first day in several days without a significant risk of rain. So, Bill packed his rain gear. Yep, it rained! At least he knew exactly where to find the gear!

We are now in Fromista doing the chores that Peregrinos do. Hope all is well with each of you.

In the United States, we are very used to the English system of measure: inches, feet and miles, cups, quarts and gallons, and ounces, pounds, and, well, more pounds. Surely other English speaking countries use this system, right? Nope.

We’ve spoken with: English, Scottish, Irish, Australian, New Zealanders, and Canadians and NO ONE uses the English system. Just us Yanks.

And don’t try the continental countries (France, Germany, Spain, Italy, etc.) … it’s all the metric system.

Bottom line: if you want to be able to talk distances, weights or volumes, you’ll want to be conversational in metric measures.

The local Spaniards we have met have been remarkably gracious. More than willing to offer help, even as you slaughter their language.  They will even offer a ” Buen Camino “, even though they have probably said that 150 times already that day.

Today, we crossed over 250 miles and are just shy of half way. Tomorrow, we get to that point.

On leaving Fromista, the sun was just rising and peeked out from behind the rain clouds to shine in this church.

It is the Iglesia de San Martin, an 11th century church which is purported to be one of the finest examples of Romanesque architecture in Spain. All we know is that it looked very cool in the sunlight.

The best way to describe the walk to Carrion is wet!  It rained for about an hour and one half during 3 separate occasions.  Yes, the rain gear was readily available and was willingly used.

The next two days will be big ones. We’ll need to do about 16 miles tomorrow, then 20b on Friday. Today, we’ll focus on rest and taking care of our feet!

First, a note about Carrion de Los Condes. As best I can figure, carrion in Spanish means the same thing as it does in English. Dead, rotting animals. And Conde means “Count”, like: Conde Dracula.  So, the town is named for the carnage caused by the counts. As you read the history of the town, and the centuries of battles between Moors and locals, local king vs. another king, etc., “carrion” seems appropriate.

The walk from Carrion to Ledigos was beautiful, but nondescript. Like walking across the Great Plains. Here’s a photo:

Ledigos, where we stayed the night, is a very small farming community with just one alburgue (hostel) as a place to stay.  We were able to book a private room for two, but with shared bathrooms, etc. It served it’s purpose, for cleaning, eating and resting.

Another 15 miles in the bank.

Hey, I don’t make these names up! They are real towns with extensive histories. They just aren’t the: Smallville, Pleasanton, Centerville kinds of names we are used to.

Today was a long one; roughly 22 miles. We ate now about 280 miles into this walk, and over half way! As a matter of fact, we went through an old decaying archway today that said: “half way! ” (you hand to expand the photo … and translate)

The next photo should be compared with yesterday’s photo of Diane walking down the Camino. One of these things is not like the other. Can you guess? Yep, very dark, black skies! We spent a lot of time in rain gear!

Now, for the Tolkien fans: Over the last couple of days, we passed several homes built into the sides of the hills. I tried to capture them, but we recognize that I am photo-challenged. Here goes:

In many ways, we do wish that Hobbits lived here. At least then they’d understand the importance of breakfast, and … second breakfasts, and … tweensies …!

No 22 miler for us today! Barely 12 miles.  Here’s another photo of Diane on the trail in the Meseta.  Can you spot the difference?

Yep, she’s already wearing the rain gear. It rained for the first 1/2 hour of our hike, then let up for the remainder. That was nice.

We also spotted more of those beautiful lavender flowers that seem to grow where they have no right to grow. Here’s one:

A couple of days ago, we had to make a decision on which trail option to choose, as there were 2 options, each with something different to see. The option we didn’t choose eventually led to an old Roman road that Caesar Augustus used to travel to the gold mines of Astorga. Hey, we HAD to see that, right?

Bill found a point where the 2 trails were reasonably close, then found a dirt road across a farmers field, then found a way across the high speed rail talks that stood in the walk and then across a swamp and … we were on the Roman road! Here’s Diane slogging along the Roman road.

Once again, the photographer isn’t the best …

On entering Mansilla, we quickly found that this town has more charm than just the typical 2,000 year old history (typical?) This is a village that the urbanites from Leon like to visit. We had lunch at a funky restaurant named, “Curiosa”, or “Curious”. None of the plates matched, the walls were lined with mismatched headboards, the beautiful picture frames enclosed either a hot water bottle or a fry pan, etc. And the food; awesome! No Peregrino porridge, here!

Now, on to our chores. Tomorrow, we’re back in the big cities, at least for 1 night.

This morning broke crisp and bright as we walked out onto the bridge outside of town and looked back at the remains of the walls of the city.

We noted something about the river below: it looked just like the river from the scene in “The Way” where Martin Sheen loses his backpack. Interestingly, the bridge itself is NOT the same from the movie. We think that was actually on the east side of Pamplona, about 250 miles from here. Well, when you make a movie, you can do anything you want!

Very quickly, we realized that the air was colder than we had felt recently. A quick scan of the horizon showed the mountains, our first view of mountains … or even hills, in 8 days of walking. And the colder air must have been coming down from there!

In 12 miles, we reached Leon. Wow! These Spanish cities are breathtaking, and Leon need apologize to no one for its beauty. Here’s the church:

Once again, the picture doesn’t do justice.  After lunch in a modernesque Leon restaurant, we leaded to our treat of the trip: We are staying in the Parador San Marcos (from the movie). Here’s Diane just outside the entrance:

Diane is currently in the oversized bathtub, enjoying the “finer things of life! “

We have many wonderful photos of Leon (stunning), but have very poor intent signal at our new home for the evening.  We will try to update tomorrow.

Let’s try this again. After checking into the Parador we did a bit of a stroll through the courtyard. Just your typical 13 th century monastic courtyard.

And your typical 13th century statuary in the typical courtyard.

Followed by a stroll through your typical 8th century walked city …

Oh, did I mention the typical 11th – 17 th century cathedral?

The hike to Villavante was a long one. Worth noting is that after 8 or 9 days of hay and wheat, the Meseta became a source of corn, and much more rolling hills.

Finally after 19 miles, we reached Villavante and our place for the night, El Molino Galoches.  Once again, the photographer does a poor job, but the B&B is a converted mill and is built straddling a stream. Very cool!

First, for some details: Today was the 24th day of walking. We have now covered about 340 miles, or the equivalent of walking from Danville to Ashland, Oregon.

The weather has continued to be overcast with occasional showers. One of the challenges of wet gravel trails is that the wet gravel sticks slightly to your shoes. I say “slightly” because once the gravel ladened shoe is up in the air and passing the other shoe, the gravel strategically drops off the upper shoe and into the lower shoe where it wreaks havoc on the foot! Hikers are aware of that problem and use “gaiters”to protect the feet. This morning, Diane decided to use such protection.

Bill asserted that the problem would go away in 5 minutes and forsook the gaiters. In short moments later, Bill had cuts on the back of his feet where the gravel dug into his heel. He’s does learn, though slowly sometimes.

Within 10 miles, we were on the plateau above Astorga looking down on the town and the mountains beyond.

In 2 days, we will be in those mountains.

Oh by the way: it seems that Astorga was an important gold mining town for the Romans a couple of millenia ago. Even Augustus Caesar made a visit here.

Tomorrow, we are off to Rabanal, the foot of the next mountain range.

We are finally back in the mountains, currently at about 3600′. Lots of trees, streams, etc.

So, 25 days into this walk, a bad day has to happen. Not bad as in “tripped”, or “sprained ankle”, but bad as in “attitude”.

There seemed to be many, many brand new Peregrinos on the trail today.  Astorga must be a popular starting point. And many new cycling Peregrinos. And, by my account, no one had good trail manners, etc.! I was really getting frustrated.

There’s a clue when you see everyone else being wrong and yourself as the only person with the “right” approach. There’s a good chance that you (me) are the one out of whack. I could see that but, darn, I still wanted to correct them all!

Diane, likewise was dealing with her own frustrations. Never good when both in a couple are frustrated at the same time.

We finally stopped in a small, ancient cathedral along the way and took a time out and prayed. No, everyone else didn’t change at that moment. But God did begin working on our hearts.

Frustration disappearing, we arrived in Rabanal to a beautiful casa rural and a scrumptious lunch.

No pictures today. Seems the photographer was dealing with a bad attitude!

Tomorrow we climb the Cruz de Ferro, one of the highlights of the Camino. More, later.