First, a note about Carrion de Los Condes. As best I can figure, carrion in Spanish means the same thing as it does in English. Dead, rotting animals. And Conde means “Count”, like: Conde Dracula.  So, the town is named for the carnage caused by the counts. As you read the history of the town, and the centuries of battles between Moors and locals, local king vs. another king, etc., “carrion” seems appropriate.

The walk from Carrion to Ledigos was beautiful, but nondescript. Like walking across the Great Plains. Here’s a photo:

Ledigos, where we stayed the night, is a very small farming community with just one alburgue (hostel) as a place to stay.  We were able to book a private room for two, but with shared bathrooms, etc. It served it’s purpose, for cleaning, eating and resting.

Another 15 miles in the bank.

Hey, I don’t make these names up! They are real towns with extensive histories. They just aren’t the: Smallville, Pleasanton, Centerville kinds of names we are used to.

Today was a long one; roughly 22 miles. We ate now about 280 miles into this walk, and over half way! As a matter of fact, we went through an old decaying archway today that said: “half way! ” (you hand to expand the photo … and translate)

The next photo should be compared with yesterday’s photo of Diane walking down the Camino. One of these things is not like the other. Can you guess? Yep, very dark, black skies! We spent a lot of time in rain gear!

Now, for the Tolkien fans: Over the last couple of days, we passed several homes built into the sides of the hills. I tried to capture them, but we recognize that I am photo-challenged. Here goes:

In many ways, we do wish that Hobbits lived here. At least then they’d understand the importance of breakfast, and … second breakfasts, and … tweensies …!

No 22 miler for us today! Barely 12 miles.  Here’s another photo of Diane on the trail in the Meseta.  Can you spot the difference?

Yep, she’s already wearing the rain gear. It rained for the first 1/2 hour of our hike, then let up for the remainder. That was nice.

We also spotted more of those beautiful lavender flowers that seem to grow where they have no right to grow. Here’s one:

A couple of days ago, we had to make a decision on which trail option to choose, as there were 2 options, each with something different to see. The option we didn’t choose eventually led to an old Roman road that Caesar Augustus used to travel to the gold mines of Astorga. Hey, we HAD to see that, right?

Bill found a point where the 2 trails were reasonably close, then found a dirt road across a farmers field, then found a way across the high speed rail talks that stood in the walk and then across a swamp and … we were on the Roman road! Here’s Diane slogging along the Roman road.

Once again, the photographer isn’t the best …

On entering Mansilla, we quickly found that this town has more charm than just the typical 2,000 year old history (typical?) This is a village that the urbanites from Leon like to visit. We had lunch at a funky restaurant named, “Curiosa”, or “Curious”. None of the plates matched, the walls were lined with mismatched headboards, the beautiful picture frames enclosed either a hot water bottle or a fry pan, etc. And the food; awesome! No Peregrino porridge, here!

Now, on to our chores. Tomorrow, we’re back in the big cities, at least for 1 night.

This morning broke crisp and bright as we walked out onto the bridge outside of town and looked back at the remains of the walls of the city.

We noted something about the river below: it looked just like the river from the scene in “The Way” where Martin Sheen loses his backpack. Interestingly, the bridge itself is NOT the same from the movie. We think that was actually on the east side of Pamplona, about 250 miles from here. Well, when you make a movie, you can do anything you want!

Very quickly, we realized that the air was colder than we had felt recently. A quick scan of the horizon showed the mountains, our first view of mountains … or even hills, in 8 days of walking. And the colder air must have been coming down from there!

In 12 miles, we reached Leon. Wow! These Spanish cities are breathtaking, and Leon need apologize to no one for its beauty. Here’s the church:

Once again, the picture doesn’t do justice.  After lunch in a modernesque Leon restaurant, we leaded to our treat of the trip: We are staying in the Parador San Marcos (from the movie). Here’s Diane just outside the entrance:

Diane is currently in the oversized bathtub, enjoying the “finer things of life! “

We have many wonderful photos of Leon (stunning), but have very poor intent signal at our new home for the evening.  We will try to update tomorrow.

Let’s try this again. After checking into the Parador we did a bit of a stroll through the courtyard. Just your typical 13 th century monastic courtyard.

And your typical 13th century statuary in the typical courtyard.

Followed by a stroll through your typical 8th century walked city …

Oh, did I mention the typical 11th – 17 th century cathedral?

The hike to Villavante was a long one. Worth noting is that after 8 or 9 days of hay and wheat, the Meseta became a source of corn, and much more rolling hills.

Finally after 19 miles, we reached Villavante and our place for the night, El Molino Galoches.  Once again, the photographer does a poor job, but the B&B is a converted mill and is built straddling a stream. Very cool!

First, for some details: Today was the 24th day of walking. We have now covered about 340 miles, or the equivalent of walking from Danville to Ashland, Oregon.

The weather has continued to be overcast with occasional showers. One of the challenges of wet gravel trails is that the wet gravel sticks slightly to your shoes. I say “slightly” because once the gravel ladened shoe is up in the air and passing the other shoe, the gravel strategically drops off the upper shoe and into the lower shoe where it wreaks havoc on the foot! Hikers are aware of that problem and use “gaiters”to protect the feet. This morning, Diane decided to use such protection.

Bill asserted that the problem would go away in 5 minutes and forsook the gaiters. In short moments later, Bill had cuts on the back of his feet where the gravel dug into his heel. He’s does learn, though slowly sometimes.

Within 10 miles, we were on the plateau above Astorga looking down on the town and the mountains beyond.

In 2 days, we will be in those mountains.

Oh by the way: it seems that Astorga was an important gold mining town for the Romans a couple of millenia ago. Even Augustus Caesar made a visit here.

Tomorrow, we are off to Rabanal, the foot of the next mountain range.

We are finally back in the mountains, currently at about 3600′. Lots of trees, streams, etc.

So, 25 days into this walk, a bad day has to happen. Not bad as in “tripped”, or “sprained ankle”, but bad as in “attitude”.

There seemed to be many, many brand new Peregrinos on the trail today.  Astorga must be a popular starting point. And many new cycling Peregrinos. And, by my account, no one had good trail manners, etc.! I was really getting frustrated.

There’s a clue when you see everyone else being wrong and yourself as the only person with the “right” approach. There’s a good chance that you (me) are the one out of whack. I could see that but, darn, I still wanted to correct them all!

Diane, likewise was dealing with her own frustrations. Never good when both in a couple are frustrated at the same time.

We finally stopped in a small, ancient cathedral along the way and took a time out and prayed. No, everyone else didn’t change at that moment. But God did begin working on our hearts.

Frustration disappearing, we arrived in Rabanal to a beautiful casa rural and a scrumptious lunch.

No pictures today. Seems the photographer was dealing with a bad attitude!

Tomorrow we climb the Cruz de Ferro, one of the highlights of the Camino. More, later.

In the course of our lives, we will lose many who are precious to us. We have both lost all our parents, and many other dear friends and relatives. Two years ago, we lost Diane’s brother and our friend, Don Baker.

Don Baker loved exercising, conversation, controversy, cycle racing, meeting new people, eating new foods, etc. It seems every step we take along this Camino is another reminder of what Don enjoyed.

Don would faithfully watch the tour de france every day during July. Because of injuries, many of the biggest stars of cycling were unable to complete the tour this year. So, they showed up for Spain Vuelta de Espana.  This year, the Vuelta followed the Camino at pretty much the same time-frame that we were hiking. We saw, or met, several of the big boys of cycling. Don would have gone crazy with this.

The Vuelta is now over, and the world championships of cycling is taking place, you guessed it, right in our path over the next few days! We have met or seen many more cyclists and will see a whole bunch more in these next couple days. Again, Don would love this.

Every day we have conversations with people from many different countries. Don always excelled at starting conversations with new people, then finding entertaining controversies that all could join in.  Hey, he was a pirate after all!

The food: No end of exotic foods for Don to have sampled. And they never use “fat free” here!

And, you have to mention all the religious significance. Don would appreciate the sublime and also find an opportunity to find a controversy or two.

And the hiking through so much varied and beautiful countryside. If Don weren’t in heaven, he would be in heaven on this Camino.

We miss you, Don Baker. Be at peace.

Today was the 26 th day of our journey. We are now 368 miles into the walk. Because we had a mountain range to cross, 16 miles to walk, and wanted to spend time at the Cruz de Ferro (more on this in the next blog), we started our walk early, under a very clear sky and 36 degree temperature. It was chilly!

After a couple hours of climbing, we made it to the top and the Cruz de Ferro.

We spent just about an hour there before moving on down the other side. There, we dropped down roughly 3,000′ over the next 8 miles. What made it more challenging was the loose slate that constantly challenged your foothold. We have become convinced that hiking poles are a necessity.

We passed through several charming villages,

and:

before making it to Molinaseca. Here’s the view out our hostal window. Definitely worth the walk!

For over a thousand years, pilgrims have walked the way of St. James. The highest point on this Camino is here at the Cruz de Ferro. Over these centuries, pilgrims would carry a stone, or burden, and lay it at the foot of the cross.

The result is a massive pile of stones from all over the world, all with unique significance to the bearer.  The pilgrim would then offer a prayer something like this:

Lord, may this stone, a symbol of my efforts on this pilgrimage that I lay at the foot of the cross of the Savior, one day weigh the balance in favor of my good deeds when the deeds of my life are judged. Let it be so.

It is beautiful and truly the wish of many of us, pilgrims or not.

While contemplating this, I couldn’t help but remember something that the Savior said, as recorded in Matthew 11:28 -30.  “Come to me all you who are weary and heavy burdened and I will give you rest. Take my yoke upon you and learn from me, for I am gentle and humble of heart, and you will find rest for your souls. For my yoke is easy and my burden is light”.

And what is this yoke and burden that the Savior has asked? To love the Lord your God with all your heart and soul, mind and strength. And the second, to love your neighbor as yourself.

There are stones that each of us choose to carry on our own pilgrimage. For Diane and I, we will choose the Savior’s yoke.

Whatever you choose as your burden and your pilgrimage, “Buen Camino, my friend”

There is rest and peace in Jesus.