All posts by Bill-Di Pinbert

Stage 5: Viana do Castela to Caminhas

Today was 17 miles walked and 1,300′ of climbing.  We’re now at 72 miles hike and 3,600′ climbed.

It was a long, rainy day today!  It started with rain and finished with rain. Wind and clouds filled the middle hours.

I’ll provide some pictures from today, then sign off. We still have a lot to do today before settling down.

We’re on the border with Spain now. The river, Minas, separates the two countries. Tomorrow morning, we’ll take the ferry across to the Spanish side and start trekking in Spain!

Stage 4: Marinhas to Viana do Castelo

Today was 15 miles long and 1300′ of climbing. Totals are now 55 miles walked and 2300′ climbed.

Today was all about a journey from river to river. We started out in Marinhas, at the estuary of the River Calvado

and hiked inland until we came to the estuary of River Limia:

with a whole lot of inland walking in between

If we got lost, there were many helpful signs to direct us

There’s more to talk about concerning today but we have a number of chores to do and a long day ahead for tomorrow (18 plus miles). Net, we’ll cut this short and perhaps fill in details on a future post!

Stage 3: Povoa Varzim to Marinhas

Today was 13 miles walked and 300′ climbed. We’ve now walked 40 miles on this journey!

No doubt about it! Today, the Pilgrims came out to play! From the moment we started today’s walk, it was clear that we were on a popular route.  For most of the day, you could look up and down the trail and see between 3 and 20 fellow hikers

We had heard that the Camino Portugues had become the second most popular Camino, and now we were seeing it! Well, the weather was nice and the scenery, amazing, so why not?

Of note, the remarkable boardwalk along the beach (about 30 miles long) finally seemed to end today. I’m just curious how much did Portugal spend on this? It had to have been in the $100’s of millions!

When the boardwalk ended, we were in (for us) more familiar forest paths

and small village market streets.

So, about half way through today’s hike, we encountered our first rain! We were prepared Pilgrims, so we stopped and pulled out our rain prevention gear (ponchos, etc) and sure enough, as soon as we put them on,  we prevented the rain! It stopped almost immediately and the sun came fully out! Yes, that rain prevention gear really works!

All for now. Laundry awaits!

Stage 2: Labruge to Povoa Varzim

Today was 10 miles and 400′ of climbing, for totals of: 28 miles walked and 800′ climbed.  Well, most of that “climbing” is probably the steps up to the boardwalk and down … because it has been REALLY flat!

A tale of two beaches!

We started this morning on a very quiet town (Labruge),

(Last night, after dinner)

The morning was cooler, the surf was up, and the beaches, very, very quiet.

 

We walked for many more miles on well preserved boardwalks before leaving the coast for the big city of Vila de Conde.

(the local church)

While a nice enough town, it went on for a long time and we definitely prefer to be out in the country.

We ended the day’s journey in the adjacent town of Povoa Varzim, the region’s designated “vacation beach town”! I tried to take photos of the beach scene, but the beaches were so covered with pay-per-sit cabanas, that you couldn’t tell that it was a beach!

We’re about 300 yards off that scene (better!) And tomorrow in less than a half mile, we’ll be back out in the country. We’re okay with that 👌.

Just before we got to the hotel we were stopped by a man in a wheelchair. No problem, we thought. If he needs help, we can help. Well, he didn’t need help. He spoke (in English) and wanted to know if we were walking the Camino (yes). Where are we from (US), and what part (California). He then tells us of his years working on an oil platform in Long Beach. Of the good memories he had of those times. So, all he wanted to do was talk and reminisce! It was actually very heart warming.

One of the reasons we work so hard to learn languages is to have these kind of conversations with locals. We figured that, since we knew ZERO Portuguese, that we wouldn’t get any of these special connections this time. Well, we got a treat, anyways. What a genuinely pleasant gentleman!

Enough for now. Until tomorrow!

(Rest of) Stage 1: Matosinhos to Labruge

Finish of Stage 1 for 9 miles walked and 400′ climbed.  Total this trip; 17 miles walked and 700′ climbed.

We’ve not seen a stage like this one in all our journeys; over 5 miles of oceanfront boardwalk!

The temperature was in the low 70’s with just enough overcast to keep the sun from toasting and a pleasant breeze … it could not have been nicer for this walk!

We left our wonderful place in Porto at a leisurely 10 am,

Caught the bus about 500 yds up the road, and spent the next 8 miles looking out the bus window at all our fellow peregrinos actually hiking! When we got to the Matosinhos Fish Market the end of our hike yesterday),

we started walking! 9 miles later, we’re in our night’s accommodation where we now face showers, laundry and the search for a nice dinner. A tough life us wanderers face!

Until tomorrow..

Day 1-ish: Porto to Matosinhos

Today is not quite day 1.  It was 8 miles of trail walked,  and about 200′ of climbing.

We officially start tomorrow. Today’s goal was to:  1) Recover (more, later), 2) Drop off a bag for DHL to ship to our finish line, and 3) see some sights around Porto, Portugal 🇵🇹!

(The Porto Train Station)

1) Recover: We had an efficient flight into Lisbon from SFO, arriving Tuesday, mid-day. We had hoped to directly catch the Lisbon to Porto train, but it was sold out, leaving us to wait for the next train (3 hours later).

While jet-lag is always an issue when flying distances, we were both recovering from a nasty cold that cut our energy levels way down. Those extra, non-sleeping hours were rough.

(The view of Pont Luis from our place in Porto)

We finally got to our place, enjoyed the view, and slept!

The next day, we formally checked into our place as we had arrived too late the night before, then did tourist things. (Item 3, on our list)

At the Cathedral which serves as the start of this Camino, there were a number of college students sporting the local Porto university uniform.

If it looks familiar to you, it’s because that uniform served as the example for the Hogwarts (Harry Potter school) uniform, as Porto was where JK Rawlings wrote the book(s).

2) Drop off the bag: We have, on several of these trips, taken an extra non-backpack bag that we ship ahead to where we will finish the hike.  This bag is much like Christmas … new (clean) clothes and  other treats for our non-hiking tourist days!

We had arranged with DHL to drop off the bag at a local store where they receive such items. No problem!

Well, we had several hours of time and no particular need, so we decided to walk a bit of the formal hike, but without the backpack. 3 hours later and 8 miles up the coast, we were in Matosinhos, about half way to our tomorrow’s stage finish!

A ride on the local bus brought us back to our place in Porto. Tomorrow, we’ll get back on that bus (with our backpacks, this time), and start from where we left off today. Diane calculates it to be another 8 or so miles.

All for now.  Thanks for rejoining us!

Day 18: Montemagno to Lucca; Operis Finis!

Today was 13 miles and 600′ of climbing. The totals for this journey are 218 miles walked and 18,600′ climbed.

When we connect 6 of our 7 caminos together, we get a continuous hike from the west coast of Spain to Rome, a distance of roughly 2,000 miles.

Today was another rainy day, but the hiking surfaces were good.  Much of the walk was on asphalt, but very much back country traveling.

With the rain and it being a Saturday morning, it was very quiet for much of the journey.

We have very poor internet at our current stay, so we will add more details when we are in Rome, tomorrow afternoon.

We are tired, but exhilarated!

More, later.

 

 

Day 17: Pietrasanta to Montemagno; When it rains, it pours!

Today was 9 miles and 1,100′ climbing. The totals are 205 miles walked and 18,000′ climbed!

The story of the day was rain!

Yesterday, the weather channel predicted lots of rain from yesterday afternoon until midnight, then clearing for today.

Well, it absolutely dumped yesterday evening! Rain, wind, thunder and lightning! We were going to go out to dinner but it was raining so hard that we canned that plan. Rather, Bill ran between raindrops to the local pizzeria (there are lots of local pizzerias) and picked up two pizzas, to go. Then a mad dash home and that was dinner!

This morning was supposed to be that “clearing”, not raining time. Well, we had maybe 30 minutes of clear, then it dumped! Some thunder, but no lightning or wind. But rain, rain and more rain!

And that rain kept dumping for 3 more hours. 3 cheers for the quality ponchos we wore!

As it started to clear, we saw this rainbow!

If you look closely at the right side of the lower rainbow, you may be able to see it “landing” in the park! I can’t recall ever seeing the ‘end’ of a rainbow 🌈  .

The approach to our stay for tonight was steep; we climbed about 500′ in less than a 1/2 mile.  But it did afford us a great view. Actually, there is a peekaboo view of the sea!

And also, some nice panaramas.

We are now working on chores for tomorrow’s hike. Tomorrow will be our last day on this journey, and the last segment before we complete the hiking transit from the West Coast of Spain, through Spain, France, Switzerland and Italy, ending in Rome!

It’ll be kind of a big deal for us. Maybe we’ll have pizza to celebrate?!

Ciao for now.

Day 16: Avenza to Pietrasanta

Today was 19 miles hiked and 1,800′ climbed. The totals are now 196 miles hiked and 16,900′ climbed.

Today was a long one and a wet one!  The phone that we use for app-based directions was kept in a zip lock bag most of the day. It only occasionally came out for photos, when the weather allowed … with one exception.

Over two weeks ago, we hiked through the first serious downpour. At the worst of the rainfall, we got stuck behind a railroad crossing, in the middle of nowhere! We stood in the downpour for probably 5 minutes, getting drenched, and the train a long time in coming.  Strange.

Today, as a reprise to that moment, we started our walk on the rain … and got stopped by another “long time coming” train, while it was raining! A herald of what was to come that day?

Once out of town and in the local hills, we finally had “the view”! We could now see the Tyrrenian Sea! Beautiful!

We stayed in the hills for the majority of the hike, with awesome views

Also, we had some of the best trail surfaces we’ve seen during the whole of this trip!  Nice!

We finally (!) arrived, found our place, unpacked, found a grocery store, then started the clean up process.

A standard practice is to look up the next day’s lodging, then locate it on Google maps … so we have a sense of how far off the formal trail it is.

On locating Friday’s lodging, Google kept showing us a village outside of Turin, Italy … about 150 miles away!  We checked, double checked, cross referenced, etc, and Google was right. There were two villages of the same name; one was 9 miles ahead of us, and t the other was 150 miles away! Our reservation was in the wrong version of that village!

We had until midnight to cancel the incorrect version without charge. Done.  Now we needed to find another ones in the correct village.

We’re still working it out as of Thursday morning, but we have options. Lucca (the final destination) is about 25 miles away.  We can find a place there.  We could walk on Friday until we’re “done”, then catch a bus to Lucca. On Saturday, we’d reverse the process and finish the hike into Lucca. There are very few lodgings where we’d like to stop and we’re checking them out also.

This morning will be all about finding a place.

In other news, after almost two weeks of “water in phone” problems, Bill’s phone is back to charging with the cable. The wireless charger did work, but it was very sensitive to how the phone was placed on it, etc. Happy days!

Today is an off day for us, and we definitely have chores to do!

Ciao

Day 15: Sarzana to Avenza; on the road again!

Today was 11 miles and 600′ of climbing. Totals are now 177 miles hiked and 15,100′ climbed.  Overall, a nice day for hiking!

After yesterday’s non-start, we wanted to be sure we were properly fueled for our journey ahead. So, after a delicious seafood pasta dinner, we found a nice gelateria, solely for the purpose of carbo-loading for today!

Carbo-loading never was so much fun!

Knowing today was only 10-12 miles, mostly flat, we got out a little after 9:00 am. As it is every day, the morning was beautiful!

And the trail surfaces we much improved.

Our path brought us to within a mile of the coastline, where an ancient Roman port city, Luni, used to be located. All that remains are some ruins, like this old amphitheater

Before falling into ruins, this amphitheater held 9,000 people, enough for when the Golden State Warriors were in town!

A we approached the town where we are staying tonight, we noticed that the mountains looked like snow! It’s not actually snow, but rather Carrara marble, which has been mined here for millennia (Roman times).

In Avenza, where we are staying, all the main street sidewalks are made of marble! Wow!

Ciao for now!