Monthly Archives: September 2024

Cinque Terre Walk #2

Today’s walk was 10 miles and 2,800′ of non-Camino walking.

We left our home base in Riomaggiore before 9 am, headed by train to the northern-most of the 5 villages,  Monterosso.

After locating the trailhead, we were off! And up and down and up … always with great views!

Soon, village #2 was in sight, Vernazza!

A diet coke, a cornetto, and a rest stop, and we were in our way to Corniglia, village #3.

At this point, our “dogs” were aching, so we quickly got back on the trail to village #4, Manorola.

We were there yesterday, so we knew we were close to home!

Now, there are two roads from Manorola to Riomaggiore, the high road and the low road. We took the high road yesterday and it was the most difficult section of trail we have seen here! Our “dogs” said,  No!

The low road is the very recently reopened Via Dell’amore path, cut through the sheer cliffs by the sea. Very beautiful, very level and very short. Yep, that sounds just right!

The only challenge was, you need a special permit to travel on it. We had one! Unfortunately, the group of 30 or so in front of us did not have one! And they were vigorously arguing with the trail attendant (in Italian). Finally,  Diane raised her cell phone showing that permit towards the guard who saw the permit and said,  “Si! Si!” She called us forward, showed our phone to the arguing Italians and let us through. Yeah! Now we were less than one level mile from home!

Soon, we were back in Riomaggiore! We’re very content, but ready for the shower and dinner that wil revive us!

Ciao!

First Cinque Terre Walk

Today was 5 miles and 1,300′ of climbing, which will not count as Camino walking.

There is a reason Cinque Terre is so popular; it’s beautiful! And, before 10 am, it’s not crowded at all.

By 10 am, that changed!

Literally, thousands of (us) tourists descended on these five villages! In places, it felt like you were in a New York train station! Still beautiful, just crowded.

After lunch in Manarola, we opted for the high trail (steep, less crowded) path back to Riomaggiore.

And, finally, we were back to our home base.

A nice walk to start our stay here!

Riomaggiore Recovery

We have arrived!

For 4 days, we are not traveling, just being tourists! Time to unwind the 3 days of travel. We have arrived in Cinque Terre!

We have a place right on the little harbor of Riomaggiore. Not to bad!

Getting here posed some of the usual challenges, 2 metro trains and 2 regional trains.

(The assorted tickets required)

We considered ourselves Milan metro experts based on our learnings the night before! So, this morning we purchased our tickets like pros and climbed aboard! On exiting through the metro turnstiles, Bill managed to get the handle of our luggage bag skewered by the turnstile crossbar, which has now returned to the closed/ locked position. “That’s a fine mess you’ve got us in, Stanley!” Fortunately, another metro rider exited, which released our bag! Thank you!

On to the Stazione Centrale Milano. It is an extraordinary work of architecture. The only photo we took was of the interior platform area.

And so, to Riomaggiore! While the weather isn’t ideal (on the verge of raining), the views are amazing!

We’ll get by …

Now, to find a local store for some snacks and check out restaurant choices for dinner!

Ciao, for now!

 

In Transit …

Planes and trains, hotels and metros …

Getting started on this Camino is a Camino unto itself!

Monday:  Left home to Oak aiport and flight to LAX.

Tuesday: Flight from LAX to Madrid.

Wednesday:  Arrive in Madrid, connecting flight to Milan,  arriving late in the evening. Note that this is as close as we’re going to get to sightseeing in Milan … a photo of the Duomo that’s in our hotel room! No touristing tonight!

Thursday:  Early morning, catch the metro to Milan Central, then the train to Riomaggiore (Cinqueterre), our home for 4 nights! Yippee!

Monday: Train to Pavia.

Tuesday:  We start walking!

 

The Start of the Finish

10 years ago, the adventure began. Diane proposed we do this “walk” across Spain, the Camino Frances. 500 miles?  Sure, why not!

We had an amazing time and looked for the next one. Well, Spain is littered with these beautiful walks, so in 2016 we opted for the Camino del Norte, plus the Camino Finnesterre, for 600 more miles! Yes, beautiful!

We hadn’t exhausted our interest, so … There’s a Chemin de St Jacques that crosses half of France and leads to the beginning of the Camino Frances. In 2018, we walked that for 450 miles.

2019 brought a change. Friends had told us about a Via Francigena walk that goes from England southward to Rome. The final 250 miles (Lucca to Rome) sounded interesting, so we were off to Italy.

Then, the pandemic. Nothing to do but dream of what’s next. As Bill and Diane looked at the map of Europe, we saw that we were closing in on a “continental crossing”, from the Atlantic Ocean (west coat of Spain) to Rome! All we had to do is fill in the blanks!

2022 the pandemic abated and we were off again! We chose to finish crossing France (Geneva to Le Puy, France). That stretch would give us crossings of all of France, and 2 complete crossings of Spain. 300 miles of French hiking later, we had France “crossed”.

2023 took us to Geneva, with the intent to walk around the lake (of that name) and head south over the Alps to Italy. Another 300 miles and we were in Pavia, Italy!

So, that brings us to Pavia, Italy to fill in the the last “gap”. We are now traveling to Pavia, to make the walk to Lucca, our 2019 starting place.

What’s it all look like? See the map below (click on it to expand the view).

All we have to do now, is do that walk. Things have a way of not being as simple 🙃 as you think.

We’ll see.

And here we are with the first step, getting to the airport. Thanks to our daughter, Stephanie, we arrived safe and sound!

Arrivederci e benvenuti in Italia (well, almost)!