Category Archives: 2014 Camino de Santiago

Bill and Diane’s first adventure on the Camino de Santiago de Compestela in 2014. St Jean Pied de Port to Santiago!

Preliminaries: Why Wirewalker?

Before Diane and I married, we committed to each other to live a life of adventure.  Our theme song at that time was Bruce Springsteen’s “Born to Run”.  More specifically, there is a line or two that goes: “will you walk with me out on the wire? Baby, we were born to run.” Diane actually had those lines engraved on Bill’s wedding ring.  Bill can no longer read them (even with reading glasses).

When we purchased our 43′ catamaran to sail across the horizon, we named her “Wirewalker”, as we viewed the ship as our vehicle to the next adventure.

Today, we depart for France/Spain and continue the wirewalking adventure in “Camino de Wirewalker”.

Preliminaries: What is the “Camino”?

In the modern mindset, the Camino is a long walk with many purposes. Some walk for religious reasons, some for health, some for entertainment. For Diane and I, it’s probably a mix of all three.

It didn’t start out that way.  To give credit where credit is due, I’ve used the description of the Pilgrimage, whole cloth, from: http://www.americanpilgrims.com/camino/history.html . I provide this only as background to the readers of this site and would commend people to the website above for a more complete description:

THE CAMINO IN HISTORY: El Camino de Santiago, in English “The Way of Saint James,” is the pilgrimage to the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in northwestern Spain, where legend has it that the remains of Jesus’s apostle Saint James the Elder lie. The Camino has existed as a Christian pilgrimage for well over 1,000 years, and there is evidence of a pre-Christian route as well. Throughout the medieval period it was one of the three most important Christian pilgrimages undertaken. Indeed, it was only these pilgrimages—to Jerusalem, to Rome, and to Santiago de Compostela—which could result in a plenary indulgence, which frees a person from the penance due for sins.

Christian legend has it that when the Apostles divided the known world into missionary zones, the Iberian peninsula fell to James. Seventh and eighth century documents suggest that he spent a number of years preaching there before returning to Jerusalem, where in the year 44 AD he was beheaded by Herod Agrippa I. After his martyrdom, popular belief relates that his followers carried his body to the coast and put it into a stone boat, which was guided by angels and carried by the wind beyond the Pillars of Hercules (the Strait of Gibraltar) to land near Finisterre, at Padrón, in northern Spain. The local Queen, Lupa, provided the team of oxen used to draw the body from Padrón to the site of a marble tomb which she had also provided. Saint James was believed to have been buried there with two of his disciples. And there the body lay, forgotten until the 9th century.

Early in that century, Pelagius, a hermit living in that part of Galicia, had a vision in which he saw a star or a field of stars that led him to what proved to be an ancient tomb containing three bodies. He immediately reported this to the local bishop, Theodomir, who declared the remains to be those of Santiago and two of his followers and who in turn reported the find to the King of Asturias, Alphonso II, who forthwith declared Santiago to be the patron saint of Spain, or of what would eventually be Spain. That would come later. A small village named Campus de Ia Stella (Field of Stars) and a monastery were established on the site. (Or possibly the Roman word for cemetery, “componere”: to bury, is the source.) In any event, news of the discovery spread like wildfire and a trickle of pilgrims began to arrive. Miracles came to be attributed to the site, and the miracles encouraged pilgrimage and pilgrimage elicited more miracles. This was all greatly encouraged by the powerful Archbishop Gelmirez of Galicia and the cathedral authorities, who were anxious to promote Santiago as a pilgrimage destination, as well as by the monks of the Abbey of Cluny in France who were anxious to support the Spanish Church in its struggle against the Moors on the Peninsula.

 

Preliminaries: Gear for the Camino

Okay, I’m working this just minutes before the car arrives to take us to the airport, so if it seems incomplete … it is.

Gear:  This is what Bill is taking. Diane’s equipment is similar. Please note that this equipment list reflects too much time in planning!  It could be done in a much simpler fashion, but that doesn’t seem to be Bill’s (or Diane’s) nature!

Let’s start with shoes: The pair in the upper left are running shoes (yes, we still plan on running even though we’re walking 15 miles/day).  They are Nike Lunar Glides and combine light weight and moderate support. The pair on the upper right are Brooks Cascadia’s. They are a well recognized as a good pair of trail running shoes often used for extended hiking.  The flipflops in the front-middle are Target, $1.99 sandals. And very well used!  Perfect to be low weight and useable for the shower, etc.

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Now we’re on to the extensive wardrobe. Upper right is a long sleeved dress shirt … sort of. Upper middle is hiking shorts, upper left is a pair of running shorts. Yes, we really do think we’re going to run.  Bottom row includes 1 long sleeved tee shirt, 3 performance tee shirts, and 3 wash and wear underwear. That’s it for standard clothes.

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Warmth comes next. We’re hiking at the beginning of Fall so we expect to see cooler temperatures and a good bit of rain. Upper left is a pair of light weight rain pants, gaiters, down jacket, and rain proof wind breaker.  Lower row are smart wool socks (easy wash and dry), icebreaker 260 sweater, balaclava, and gloves. These should hold up through freezing conditions.

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Now, the first aid. Band aids, mole skin and ibuprofen top the list here.

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How about the frivolous? Hard to see, but we have a stove, a pot for boiling water, and enough Starbucks Via to fuel a nuclear power plant. We just don’t want to be”caught out” without our early morning caffeine fix!

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Personal stuff: razors, toothbrush and paste, etc. Also, 2 spare reading glasses because, hey, we’ve already established that Bill can’t read so good without glasses.

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Electronics:one led headlamp, an led lamp, 1 Power Monkey charger, cords, running watch, electrical adapters for Spain, etc.

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Still to be shown are the sleeping bag (possibly useful), bivy (very useful), walking poles, and backpack.

Day 1 in Paris

After two planes and two trains we have arrived outside of the office where we will pick up the keys to our rental apartment.  It is raining, but still very nice in Paris. Our only challenge? There is no one in the office for us to get keys. We are fortunate in that there are several free WiFi signals available. On accessing one, we are able to send an email to the person we were to meet. after 15 minutes with no avail, we use the wifi signal to make a Skype phone call. That seems to work. We are taken to our flat, and it is a wonderful unit on the 5th floor above the bustling sixth arrondissement street, Rue de Buci. A quick unpack later, we are out for a long evening stroll along the Seine.

This morning began with a running tour of Paris. In 6 miles of running, and 3 miles of walking, we were able to see the cathedral at Notre Dame, the Tulleries, the Champs-Elysées, Arc de Triomphe, the Eiffel tower, Musee d’Orsay, and many beautiful Ponts, etc. Take that Hop on Hop off! Our tour didn’t cost 29 Euros AND was a great warm up for the Camino!

This afternoon will be filled with more exploring and tomorrow, we’ll actually go INSIDE some of these sights we ran by!  No drive by tourists here!

 

 

Day 2 in Paris

Over the last 24 hours, we’ve actually gone inside the buildings! Yesterday afternoon was the Louvre, today was the Musee d’Orsay. While absolutely fascinating, both Diane and I have realized that we are each good for only about 3 hours in a museum at a time.  Even with that constraint, we we’d still able to see a lifetime of amazing art.

This morning began with a run to, then through, the Luxembourg gardens. That was beautiful and a great place to run! We weren’t the only runners with that idea. There were 100’s of joggers there.

This afternoon was the Orsay, then another great walk on the Seine.  On feature of all the bridges (ponts) is that there are locks plastered on all the railings. It is purportedly to lock in your love in Paris” … or something. Whatever it is, it is popular!

 

Metro Scoff Laws, Diane and Bill

Okay, okay, there is a back story. We left our rental unit at 6:00 am this morning to catch the metro, then the SNCF train to Bayonne, then the local train to St. Jean. That was early enough, but not cush with time. In arriving at the metro, we couldn’t find the ticket vending machine. We searched and searched. Bill asked the only other person around in french, where to buy a ticket (or so bill hoped). The guy looked confused (go figure) and motioned for us to follow him as he went through the turnstiles. Of course we couldn’t! We had no ticket!
Being inventive we decided to go in the exit and find the ticket booth INSIDE. Well, there was no ticket booth INSIDE, but we were!  So, we might as well take the train … because after all, we can always buy an add fare on leaving, right? Nope! No add fare.  So, we left the metro exit looking over our shoulders expecting a company of Gendarmes to swoop down on us at any time.
We have heard from some of our fellow pilgrims that they’d seen our photos inside the French post office, though. We’re only 5 more miles to the Spanish border. I think we’ll make it!

The Excitement Builds

After leaving the thrilling life of metro sneaks, the train to Bayonne was relaxing and nondescript. Once in Bayonne, things changed! All of a sudden, everyone around has a backpack. The conversations start with short questions, then quickly grow to life stories. A group of 2 becomes a circle of 20 telling stories in anticipation of the hike to come. By the time we arrive in St.  Jean, you have 30 good friends you will see off and in for  35 days.
Here’s a picture of part of the group.

St. Jean: A Day of Preparation

We should probably note that almost all pilgrims we have met do not take a day of preparation. Just about everyone we met yesterday left this morning. That, even though it was raining a good deal. When you get here and sense the anticipation of the journey, you understand the desire to start now, not later.

We are not in a rush. We took a day of preparation … and the weather is supposed to be much better tomorrow.

One of the requirements of the pilgrimage is to check in at the Peregrino office and receive your first stamp. The office is always crowded! Many, many pilgrims. They are an equal mix of twenty-somethings and retired folks (like us).

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Next, we searched for gas for our backpacking stove (remember out 80+ packets of Starbucks Via?  We don’t want to be caught out! )

From there we explored where the trail begins. If you saw “The Way”, you’ll remember the first thing Martin Sheen did on starting his journey was go the wrong way! We at least have that one covered!

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Here is a photo of the river Nive as seen looking or our hotel room window. It is beautiful here.

Well, tomorrow we begin!