All posts by Bill-Di Pinbert

Preliminaries: Gear for the Camino

Okay, I’m working this just minutes before the car arrives to take us to the airport, so if it seems incomplete … it is.

Gear:  This is what Bill is taking. Diane’s equipment is similar. Please note that this equipment list reflects too much time in planning!  It could be done in a much simpler fashion, but that doesn’t seem to be Bill’s (or Diane’s) nature!

Let’s start with shoes: The pair in the upper left are running shoes (yes, we still plan on running even though we’re walking 15 miles/day).  They are Nike Lunar Glides and combine light weight and moderate support. The pair on the upper right are Brooks Cascadia’s. They are a well recognized as a good pair of trail running shoes often used for extended hiking.  The flipflops in the front-middle are Target, $1.99 sandals. And very well used!  Perfect to be low weight and useable for the shower, etc.

20140825_113122_resized

Now we’re on to the extensive wardrobe. Upper right is a long sleeved dress shirt … sort of. Upper middle is hiking shorts, upper left is a pair of running shorts. Yes, we really do think we’re going to run.  Bottom row includes 1 long sleeved tee shirt, 3 performance tee shirts, and 3 wash and wear underwear. That’s it for standard clothes.

20140825_112725_resized

Warmth comes next. We’re hiking at the beginning of Fall so we expect to see cooler temperatures and a good bit of rain. Upper left is a pair of light weight rain pants, gaiters, down jacket, and rain proof wind breaker.  Lower row are smart wool socks (easy wash and dry), icebreaker 260 sweater, balaclava, and gloves. These should hold up through freezing conditions.

20140825_112205_resized

Now, the first aid. Band aids, mole skin and ibuprofen top the list here.

20140825_111642_resized

How about the frivolous? Hard to see, but we have a stove, a pot for boiling water, and enough Starbucks Via to fuel a nuclear power plant. We just don’t want to be”caught out” without our early morning caffeine fix!

20140825_111200_resized

Personal stuff: razors, toothbrush and paste, etc. Also, 2 spare reading glasses because, hey, we’ve already established that Bill can’t read so good without glasses.

20140825_110749_resized

Electronics:one led headlamp, an led lamp, 1 Power Monkey charger, cords, running watch, electrical adapters for Spain, etc.

20140825_090941_resized

Still to be shown are the sleeping bag (possibly useful), bivy (very useful), walking poles, and backpack.

Day 1 in Paris

After two planes and two trains we have arrived outside of the office where we will pick up the keys to our rental apartment.  It is raining, but still very nice in Paris. Our only challenge? There is no one in the office for us to get keys. We are fortunate in that there are several free WiFi signals available. On accessing one, we are able to send an email to the person we were to meet. after 15 minutes with no avail, we use the wifi signal to make a Skype phone call. That seems to work. We are taken to our flat, and it is a wonderful unit on the 5th floor above the bustling sixth arrondissement street, Rue de Buci. A quick unpack later, we are out for a long evening stroll along the Seine.

This morning began with a running tour of Paris. In 6 miles of running, and 3 miles of walking, we were able to see the cathedral at Notre Dame, the Tulleries, the Champs-Elysées, Arc de Triomphe, the Eiffel tower, Musee d’Orsay, and many beautiful Ponts, etc. Take that Hop on Hop off! Our tour didn’t cost 29 Euros AND was a great warm up for the Camino!

This afternoon will be filled with more exploring and tomorrow, we’ll actually go INSIDE some of these sights we ran by!  No drive by tourists here!

 

 

Day 2 in Paris

Over the last 24 hours, we’ve actually gone inside the buildings! Yesterday afternoon was the Louvre, today was the Musee d’Orsay. While absolutely fascinating, both Diane and I have realized that we are each good for only about 3 hours in a museum at a time.  Even with that constraint, we we’d still able to see a lifetime of amazing art.

This morning began with a run to, then through, the Luxembourg gardens. That was beautiful and a great place to run! We weren’t the only runners with that idea. There were 100’s of joggers there.

This afternoon was the Orsay, then another great walk on the Seine.  On feature of all the bridges (ponts) is that there are locks plastered on all the railings. It is purportedly to lock in your love in Paris” … or something. Whatever it is, it is popular!

 

Metro Scoff Laws, Diane and Bill

Okay, okay, there is a back story. We left our rental unit at 6:00 am this morning to catch the metro, then the SNCF train to Bayonne, then the local train to St. Jean. That was early enough, but not cush with time. In arriving at the metro, we couldn’t find the ticket vending machine. We searched and searched. Bill asked the only other person around in french, where to buy a ticket (or so bill hoped). The guy looked confused (go figure) and motioned for us to follow him as he went through the turnstiles. Of course we couldn’t! We had no ticket!
Being inventive we decided to go in the exit and find the ticket booth INSIDE. Well, there was no ticket booth INSIDE, but we were!  So, we might as well take the train … because after all, we can always buy an add fare on leaving, right? Nope! No add fare.  So, we left the metro exit looking over our shoulders expecting a company of Gendarmes to swoop down on us at any time.
We have heard from some of our fellow pilgrims that they’d seen our photos inside the French post office, though. We’re only 5 more miles to the Spanish border. I think we’ll make it!

The Excitement Builds

After leaving the thrilling life of metro sneaks, the train to Bayonne was relaxing and nondescript. Once in Bayonne, things changed! All of a sudden, everyone around has a backpack. The conversations start with short questions, then quickly grow to life stories. A group of 2 becomes a circle of 20 telling stories in anticipation of the hike to come. By the time we arrive in St.  Jean, you have 30 good friends you will see off and in for  35 days.
Here’s a picture of part of the group.

St. Jean: A Day of Preparation

We should probably note that almost all pilgrims we have met do not take a day of preparation. Just about everyone we met yesterday left this morning. That, even though it was raining a good deal. When you get here and sense the anticipation of the journey, you understand the desire to start now, not later.

We are not in a rush. We took a day of preparation … and the weather is supposed to be much better tomorrow.

One of the requirements of the pilgrimage is to check in at the Peregrino office and receive your first stamp. The office is always crowded! Many, many pilgrims. They are an equal mix of twenty-somethings and retired folks (like us).

20140829_120135

Next, we searched for gas for our backpacking stove (remember out 80+ packets of Starbucks Via?  We don’t want to be caught out! )

From there we explored where the trail begins. If you saw “The Way”, you’ll remember the first thing Martin Sheen did on starting his journey was go the wrong way! We at least have that one covered!

20140830_010212

Here is a photo of the river Nive as seen looking or our hotel room window. It is beautiful here.

Well, tomorrow we begin!

 

St. Jean to Orisson

We are finally under way!  After all the coffee or generous host was willing to part with into our cups, we left St. Jean … 480 miles to go.

We left Maisson Dona Maria, or hotel in St. Jean about 10:45 in the morning for the 5 mile walk to Orisson.

20140830_230740

 

Within 2 blocks we encounter the first of hundreds of trail markers along the Camino.

20140831_015152

Five short miles later, we are at Orisson (it felt like 20 short miles …)

20140831_061238

 

Orisson is really beautiful, the background of the picture hardly does it justice.

Orisson is also a hostel, not a hotel. We learn what that means … There were only 6 to a room here, but that was plenty. All very nice people. All with different snoring characteristics, different temperature requirements, different bed times, etc.  I’ve learned that sleeping alone with Diane is the better way to go.  Mark that under lessons learned.

Orisson to Espinal

 

In the hostel, we all get up at the same. We all pack at the same time, eat breakfast at the same time, and hit the road at the same time. Well, almost. Diane and Bill are a bit slow. So, about 10 minutes after the crowds leave we’re on our way.  In quick note: While Bill decided that he’s not a fan of hostels, it should be noted that we would stop at Orisson again in a heart beat. Beautiful local and the staff are excellent. Also, the 5 mile shorter start is a really good way to get your trail legs.

Back to the post: as we work or way up through the Pyrenees, we join up with many good pilgrims to share some time with. The photo below is of Diane with Janice, a genuinely nice New Zealander, who is also a committed Christian doing the walk as a true pilgrimage. She is the third Christian pilgrim we’ve met. This is not to say that there aren’t many others; we just haven’t met them or faith didn’t come up in the conversation.

20140901_000535

 

The hike to the pass was both eerie and awesome. Often, the fog would shroud everything beyond 100 yards. At other times the view was breathtaking.

The next photo is the border of France and Spain. We made it! While we took a moment to shake off our fear of the Gendarmes catching us for our Metro mishap, we were quickly informed about Interpol … we’ll never be safe again I guess!

20140901_013740

About 6 miles past the border we came to Roncesvalles, the typical stopping spot for Pilgrims. A German movie crew was there filming a movie about the Camino. We decided against a cameo role. Here’s a photo of the hostel in Roncesvalles.

20140901_034711

We had lunch there then decided to push on a few more miles.

We finally came to a stop in Espinal, where we found a great Casa Rural with a room for just Diane and I! Yippee!  15 miles today, and life is good.

Espinal to Villava (just outside Pamplona)

Once again, my time is limited for this post. The short story is: We walked about 22 miles today (fun but exhausting) and are now within about 4 miles of Pamplona.

The trail through the Spanish side of the Pyrenees is also beautiful, but in a different sort of way. Less rugged, but very lush.

20140902_023851

 

At times, you follow a road, and others you are on your own trail.

20140902_044304

The Vuelta a Espana starts tomorrow from downtown Pamplona at around noon so we had hoped to be within striking distance. We are!

We didn’t arrive until about 6:00, or about 9.5 hours of walking. A bit much.

The coolest thing was as we were walking back to the hotel after dinner (yes, we could still walk … though barely) we saw a car in the nearby gas station with signs on it indicating that it was a support vehicle for the race. Actually, it was Alberto Contador’s support car (if you are familiar with cycling, you’ll know that he is one of the favorites).

We talked to the man and asked when the race starts (1:20), and where, and how his team is doing (of course he said, quite well.  What else would he say? )

We’re not sure if we’ll stay tomorrow night in downtown Pamplona; maybe. Or maybe we walk another 10-15 miles. Such is the life of Pilgrims.